The movie also shines a light on her civil rights activism and offstage struggles as the target of a federal narcotics sting. While Holiday was influenced by performers such as Louis Armstrong and Artie Shaw, other artists learned from her: “It is Billie Holiday who was, and still remains, the greatest single musical influence on me,” said Frank Sinatra in 1958. “Lady Day is unquestionably the most important influence on American singing in the last 20 years.” Channel your own Lady Day style, with tips from The United States vs. Billie Holiday costumer designer Paolo Nieddu.
How to recreate costumes from Billie Holiday
Add Regal Rhinestones
Costume designer Paolo Nieddu studied countless images of the jazz vocalist to create 70 looks in the movie, turning to resale sites like eBay and 1stDibs for vintage earrings and bracelets that captured her essence. “Any woman of any age today could wear modern clothing, jeans and a sweatshirt or T-shirt with a rhinestone necklace or earrings, and it’s something Billie would have worn.” These Monument Earrings seem right up Holiday’s fashion alley. $40, epifene.com
Find elaborate florals
After burning her hair while ironing it backstage, Holiday wore fragrant gardenias to cover the mishap, and the floral hair accessory became her signature look, also seen in 1972’s Lady Sings the Blues starring Diana Ross. Sport your own gardenia and tribute to Holiday with The Unemployed Philosophers Guild Billie Holiday and Gardenia Enamel Pin Set. $16, amazon.com
Seek out iconic pieces
Nieddu made sure that he replicated two of Holiday’s favorite pieces: iconic African face mask earrings and a gold charm bracelet (he found a vintage replica in a Montreal boutique). Build your own Billie bracelet with meaningful charms like the Vinyl Diamond Record and Microphone. $325 and $275, charmco.com
Look for historical significance
“Holiday’s style was elegant and dramatic, opulent and sensual. It reflected the glamour of the stage, but it was also a political statement,” says Richard Thompson Ford, author of the new book Dress Codes: How the Laws of Fashion Made History (Simon & Schuster). “Fashion offered Holiday a way to challenge racial stereotypes.” $30, barnesandnoble.com Next, The United States vs. Billie Holiday Movie Review
